|
Post by Brooke on Jan 4, 2006 20:22:25 GMT -5
You actually can have a dog that will heel correctly (sit at halt included) and have a dog that can freestack after gaiting. I know dozens of obedience titled dogs who show in conformation, and they definitely have been taught to sit. When you're showing and gaiting the dog, they are not heeling although many are near your side. They aren't supposed to be looking at you, they should have their head facing forward and they just.... go! Treat this like you would treat an automatic sit. When the dog is done gaiting, give them a cue to stack before they can even consider sitting. Sooner or later they will catch onto the difference between gaiting and heeling. (And if your dog does sit in the ring, just quickly get him back up. Judges are pretty good about things like that with puppies.) Hey! Where you been girl! Good to see you again! ;D
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Dec 20, 2005 22:44:31 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Nov 28, 2005 23:16:19 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Nov 25, 2005 19:09:46 GMT -5
Well there are a few things you could try..
How bold is she? For instance with Kuma if there are things laying on the couch she wouldn't bother. Just laying newspaper acrossed the cushions worked with her. With Peeka she would just lay right on top of everything.
We took to using mousetraps under the newspaper. If that doesn't work I'd probably do some avoidence training with an e-collar. Stimulate her when she thinks you aren't aware she is getting up. Typically in avoidence training you should only have to catch her a couple times and that would be the end of it.
Otherwise I'd keep her out of the rooms with gates or crating when you can't watch her and keep her on a leash when you can.
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Sept 18, 2005 21:26:37 GMT -5
how long are you planning keeping him in it?
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Sept 18, 2005 22:08:41 GMT -5
Personally I find nothing wrong with tugs depending on the dogs temperament. If they are dominant by all means... don't use them but in fact, I think they can be excellent tools to boost confidence in some of the shy'er pups. I think if he's a quick learner you are fine to start advancing to more. Especially if he's needing more activity to keep him stimulated. "Stay" is a good excersize to work on. I'd start making him "wait" for his food until you give him the "ok" to eat. Some of these are in the NILIF thread. dogden.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=articles&action=display&thread=1079736429
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Sept 18, 2005 21:29:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 24, 2005 20:23:50 GMT -5
Females are the best anyway. HAHA. ;D
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 21, 2005 22:11:28 GMT -5
Smaller dogs do tend to be a bit more mouthy but in many cases it is because people inadvertantly train them to be. First things first... people with small breeds tend to over handle them too much. They are termed "lap dog" because they are taught to be attention seekers and their size is where the problem is. They are over babied. They are too often picked up and carried. Don't forget that they have legs and they can walk on their own. Let him walk the majority of the time. Don't give in to barking by picking them up. This is what trains them to bark so much. They learn that by barking they will get what they want and they take this as a reward. Also remember, smaller breeds tend to bond strickly to people they know. This is also from being over handled. A new person comes over and they are held most of the time. Something bad happens you pick them up. Consider the message you are sending something that doesn't understand. If you didn't understand the new things around you and someone ran up and grabbed you and hugged you away from everything... would you not be a nervous wreck all the time? That is why you see so many skittish small dogs around. They think the world is a scary place. Don't treat him any different than if he were a 90 lb dog or he will have a bigger shot at turning into a terror than you think. A simple "hush" is about all the attention he should get for barking but try to ignore it for awhile. If it's too much I would crate him without a word. You don't want him to think of the crate as a bad thing but just a quiet place to relax. Alternating crate times is great! And if he's not much of a walker on the lead I would... at first coax him with a treat. Lead in one hand walking with a treat or a spoon of peanut butter on the other for short period of time. If that doesn't get him going... don't choke him as you drag him but give him a few tugs as you continue to walk. He should get it. Most pups don't take to the lead right off. They all tend to resist at first... eventually he will probably be dragging you. ;D
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 21, 2005 23:44:26 GMT -5
I'm not a fan of teaching a dog to bark to go to the restroom. I'm also not much of a fan of teaching a dog to use bells to go either but I'd rather see you do that than getting him to bark. Most of the dogs I have had have had have sat in front of me and stared at me. Although... Kuma and Peeka both also learned to grunt at me (well Kuma will give me one small quiet whine as she stares at me by the doorway and Peeka will just stand directly in front of whatever I'm looking at or in front of me if I'm reading and grunt at me.) Anyway...I'm not sure if this was something that just came with time. I contribute this to having them on a leash at all times until they are 100% on their house training. Have you read our article yet?? It has everything we did to train our dogs. If you haven't... here it is dogden.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=articles&action=display&thread=1074722872I would just keep a 6 ft leash on him. If you are doing something, sit, wrap it around you somewhere or stand on it. As soon as you feel it move your attention should be more likely to go to him. If he understands that this is the signal he's trying to give you either 1... he will try and go right there in front of you if you aren't paying attention and you can correct him. This should cause him to think of another way to let you know. Or 2... he will whine which is where you praise him and rush him out.
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 21, 2005 21:13:02 GMT -5
I'm sorry Alexey. As much as many of us really want and enjoy helping those in need, I'm not sure I'm comfortable donating money to a stranger and promoting those causes to other members that cross my forum. Especially one with a brand new site. I'm not by any means saying that it's not true but you never know who to trust.
I hope you understand my reasons in removing this thread. Feel free to continue posting. You are welcome to stick around and enjoy our forum.
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 19, 2005 21:20:17 GMT -5
Well at least things are going well! Thats good. Labs seem to be easy to house train from my experience. Kuma only had 2 or 3 accidents. She was a really fast learner. Always a major bonus! ;D
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 14, 2005 22:10:56 GMT -5
I thought you were posting this wanting Finn too! Yep I would suggest to stop giving in. If she's done both her things then she should be fine. I would say tell her to go lay down, crate her if you still are or just ignore her.
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Aug 1, 2005 18:43:24 GMT -5
just praise up the whazoo when that happens barb... ;D You are on the right path. When they do that they are catching on to some degree. Just make sure you are correcting and reinforcing.
|
|
|
Post by Brooke on Jul 8, 2005 18:20:28 GMT -5
It is odd to me that she is pooping 4 times a day! Twice is normal... 4 times... seems excessive. How much and often is she eating? Do you free feed her or feed her at specific times?
What is her size? Height to shoulder blade and weight?
|
|