|
Post by pmkrause on Oct 9, 2006 16:20:08 GMT -5
new puppy is now 6months and huge! a very tall labradoodle. She has been taking things off the counter-tops. Her only room in the house is the kitchen so moving her out is not an option. The kitchen is huge and she gets plenty of exercise outside. We tether her during meal times to keep her from table stealing. we tried to startle her with a coke can and coins, not always within reach. I can't maneuver with her attached (she's too big and heavy), so stepping on tether is really not an option either. ANYONE have suggestions on how to curb this behavior?
she also still nips - hard occasionally, mostly when she wants to play. and also likes to mouth new guests? clearly she's still in an oral stage even though she has her adult teeth. is that normal?
|
|
|
Post by kaos on Oct 9, 2006 19:47:11 GMT -5
Hi pmkrause, I know this is not what you will want to hear, but I would strongly advise you to remove everything edible from your kitchen counter tops unless you are there actively watching your dog and near enough to act before she reaches food. The reason for this is that every time your pup is successful in her stealing she has rewarded herself with a tasty treat. This strengthens the behaviour and increases the chances of her repeating it. If sometimes there is no food, and other times there is some food, this behaviour is effectively on a schedule of variable reinforcement which is a very powerful motivator (think slot machines for a human equivalent). From now on you want to ensure that this behaviour is never rewarded with finding food.
In conjunction with ensuring stealing efforts are not rewarded, you can make sure she behaves appropriately around food. If you have never fed her from the table I am suprised that you have found it necessary to tether her - is someone in your house slipping her food?
I would work on encouraging your pup to learn exercises which promote self control. This is often in limited supply at six months but they can start to learn. You can teach and practice a 'leave it' cue so that she doesn't automatically think it is ok to hoover up any dropped food for example, as well as asking her to 'earn' every life and food reward with a basic NILIF type of programme. This can be very simple stuff such as sit before the door opens, or sit to have your lead put on before a fun walk, or sit politely before dinner is presented.
I would also look at general basic obedience training. This type of training promotes concentration and self-control, as well as making the dog much easier to live with. Start working on a solid 'stay' so that you needn't tether your dog during meal times. The chances are that a labradoodle will be a smart dog, so the mental stimulation of training will be a bonus for your pup.
Bite inhibition also requires self-control on your pups part. It is normal to still be 'in an oral stage' still at six months, but I would expect my dogs to have learned that mouthing people is unacceptable by now and especially that hard nips are not on. Chewing should be taking place on suitable toys which you provide such as stuffed kongs. How are you reacting at the moment when she bites?
|
|
|
Post by pmkrause on Oct 9, 2006 20:54:56 GMT -5
i should start by saying that i have a four year and a seven year old (humans) in the house. It is easy for me to control my behavor but the kids are not so easy. They immediate reaction is to scream or yell at the dog when a bad behavoir occurs. so mouthing is indirectly incuraged. I'm trying as hard as i can but the kids just don't get it. To our dog's credit, she does get a chew toy when she wants the kids to pet her, which I have encouraged. She mouths mostly myself and my son when she wants to play, or as a greeting to new people.
I am working on leave it, and have already taken puppy classes, am planning on continuing with more. THe counter tops -- she finds everything is fair game not just food. And in an active household that's difficult to keep clear. The kitchen is the center hub. Oddly, she doesn't touch anything on the desk. Table tethering is only because she can just walk up and take food, napkins (her favorite) right off without trying. The kids are small so they keep plates near the edge. It's a no win situation so the tether keeps the situation fair until i can teach her stay, which i haven't tried yet. (was waiting till the next set of classes).
She is smart I just wondered what else we could do. I'm racking my brains and yours for positive alternatives for these behavoirs. she learns fast so it's just a matter of finding something that works as an alternative. thanks
|
|
|
Post by kaos on Oct 9, 2006 21:24:46 GMT -5
Well, it can be difficult trying to train children and a puppy at the same time.... but it is definitely possible (and at this stage probably essential) that counter tops remain clear when the puppy can't be watched or contained. The honest truth is that any training will be undermined by your pup 'scoring' when she counter surfs and you are not around to prevent it. The only two practical choices until this habbit has been reversed is clearing the counters or permanently managing your dog so that she can not access them unsupervised eg by using a crate or similar arrangement.
I think by 4 and 7 the kids should be old enough to become actively involved in the puppys training. Have them practice (away from mealtimes and when you are able to supervise of course) very basic obedience like sit or come that the pup already knows. Make sure they ask the pup to 'sit' before they give her dinner, or agree to play a game. Make sure they end the game immediately that they feel teeth - every time. When you can't supervise I would encourage them not to play with the pup.
If you have completed basic obedience you should be able to ask for a 'down' while the family eat. A long stay may be asking a bit much at this stage, but you could reserve special longer lasting treats for family meal times in order to keep the dog occupied in a 'legal' way rather than hovering at the table. For example, ask for a down, praise and present a stuffed kong or special chew to keep her busy. Any hovering could lead to being put back on the tether and removing the chew or kong. Do not allow any family member to interact with the dog whilst they are seated at the table as this will encourage her fascination and will definitely be sending mixed signals.
I am suprised your obedience class did not introduce a short stay. In my class pups around four months will happily perform a short stay (with the distraction of other dogs around) in order to graduate. I would definitely start introducing this as I find it invaluable in all kinds of situations. Do you make time each day to reinforce and practice what she has already learnt? This need only be 5-10 mins but can make a huge difference.
|
|
|
Post by willow on Oct 10, 2006 15:47:47 GMT -5
I am in agreement with what Kaos has said, and just have a couple of further suggestions.
Because of the layout of our house, my dogs are not restricted from going into certain rooms, but they are forbidden to go into some rooms at certain times.
For instance: The kitchen: My dogs must walk through the kitchen to get to the mud room where their food/water is, but when we are cooking/cleaning up, my dogs are not allowed in the kitchen. Period. And even though my dogs do not counter surf, I always put ALL food away and wipe up counter tops after preparing food. It is just healthier to do that and also there is no food or lingering smells to tempt the dogs. I know I would not like a nice bowl of snicker bars left out where I could see/smell them and then be told I could not go near them!
If we eat in the family room, my dogs are allowed in the room, but they must lie quietly on their beds. If you don't have a crate, your dog should at least have a blanket in a quiet corner away from foot traffic where he can go to lie down. The children should not be allowed to bother the dog when he is in his bed.
One such spot in our house is in the corner behind my husbands recliner in the family room. That is my aussie's favorite spot to go to get out of the way. My BC lies on "his" blanket on the landing between the kitchen/family room, which is also out of the way of where we walk.
When we eat in the dining room, the dogs are not allowed in the room. Period. They are told to "go lie down" on their blankets in the family room/landing while we eat.
The same holds true when we are cooking/cleaning up the kitchen. If the dogs should forget and come into the kitchen looking for crumbs, they are told to "go lie down" on their beds.
When we are done eating, the "alpha dog" (me) allows them a little bit of "people food" as a treat, but it is put in their dishes, and then they are fed their own raw meat meal outside.
|
|
|
Post by Aussienot on Oct 10, 2006 19:44:21 GMT -5
The best piece of dog behavior management advice I have ever received is that the only way to stop the dog from counter surfing is to keep clean counters.
Kaos and Willow have both posted very good and practical advice. A crate would be a easy way of confining the dog while you eat, or you can train the dog to go to a blanket or mat for an extended down. 'Send to Mat' is one of the exercises I teach in puppy classes, and most people find it very useful.
|
|
|
Post by Dom on Oct 14, 2006 20:44:00 GMT -5
I am sorry but I have not had INTERNET for awhile so have not seen all the posts.
There are items that are called "snappy trainers". They are like huge mouse traps with fly swatters attached. I have also set up one of my dogs with food on the counter and pots, pans, and anything to come tumbling down so when he went for the counter tops. It was not pleasant for the dog
I would suggest supervision before all. Reward is the food so it is hard to remove that incentive. My dogs also know if I am in the kitchen then they are expected to stand at the barrier. If they have to come in the back door then they have pass through the kitchen. It is all about consistency. Do it once and every time. Let is slack one time and they get reward then you are back to square one.
|
|